The cover and dew of the hottest Chinese clothing

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Covering and revealing of Chinese clothing

clothing designer Ma Ling once said: the whole history of clothing is the history of opening and covering

the author hopes to analyze the "cover and dew" of clothing from the clothing of previous dynasties in China, so as to provide a long time for clothing to cover and dew, and a reflection on the development of modern clothing in China

in ancient times, human beings lived in caves in deep mountains and forests, just like all animals. The ancestors lived a primitive naked life. It is only when human beings are gradually moving towards civilization and sexual consciousness has gradually become an important part of social consciousness that people begin to cover their sensitive parts with leaves and kudzu to prevent the opposite sex from staring at themselves. However, the author believes that this so-called "shielding" is not a negative avoidance of the opposite sex, but is precisely to achieve a certain positive attraction to the opposite sex. Obviously, when we cannot turn a blind eye to common places, the mystery and attraction to the opposite sex are self-evident. If this can be regarded as the origin of human clothing, then, in the late Paleolithic age, people had initially mastered the sewing technology, stripped the skins of hunted animals, and made various clothes according to needs, so that the clothing gradually took shape

what kind of "cover and exposure" can achieve the greatest attraction to the opposite sex? Therefore, human beings began to have aesthetic and aesthetic views on clothing, as well as its research

with the evolution of human clothing, as far as human ontology is concerned, it gradually loses the ability to adapt and resist nature at the same time. If so, clothing is not only to attract the opposite sex, but also become a necessity for cold protection and skin care. For this reason, clothing has produced different styles in four seasons, as well as different types of clothing formed due to the division of labor. This adds another level of design and thinking to the purpose of "covering and revealing". At this time, the effect of clothing is not only to "hide shame", but also to prevent the invasion of the cold current and how to adapt to the needs of production and labor. However, the author believes that from the perspective of the origin of clothing, this is not its main reason. Since the whole history of clothing is the history of opening and covering. Therefore, the aesthetic concept of covering and revealing on clothing has produced clothing culture. And clothing culture is rooted in the civilization history of human development for thousands of years. Therefore, the "adoption of domestic unique circular production mode to cover and expose" and closure or opening on clothing are naturally restricted by the times and society

in China, after entering the long-term feudal autocratic society, the original intention of the origin of human clothing has been changed. Instead, it is more about serving their political system and cultural ideas. For example, the Dragon Robe is added, and only the emperor of the right one wears it. And when the civil and military officials, their clothes have strict regulations and insurmountable. As for the folk, whether men or women, clothing has considerable constraints. However, it is interesting that the origin of clothing in the past century has always been the original intention of the origin of human clothing, and instinctively fought against it

China's clothing system began in the Xia and Shang Dynasties. During the Shang and Zhou dynasties, clothes were made of tops and pants. The shirt has many small sleeves and is knee long. Its collar, sleeve and edge have different patterns. The waist is tied with a belt. During the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period, a new type of one-piece clothing called "deep clothes" appeared. In the Qin Dynasty, clothes were still one-piece, with wide sleeves and big robes. The form of clothing was included in the category of "rule of Rites", which showed the social concept and spiritual connotation of entering at that time. The system is rigorous. In feudal society, Chinese costumes were not for concealment, but just the carrier of Chengchang etiquette for the Korean people

during Emperor Wu of Han Dynasty, the imperial court sent Zhang Qian to the western regions. Women in the Tang Dynasty adopted the open costumes of the western regions. It is designed as a large sleeved leno shirt with a bare neck. However, due to the Han Dynasty's exclusive respect for Confucianism, Hu Fu failed to have a great impact. In the Wei and Jin Dynasties, the literati took the lead in untying their clothes and exposing their ancestors' breasts and feet. As a result, it has triggered the possibility of the basic nature of women in the back area wearing bare clothes

From the Tang Dynasty, the openness of thought was first reflected in women's clothing. In front of the two special-shaped copper strip production lines imported from France, it is characterized by freedom, stretch and interest. At this time, the most representative clothes are: topless, high waist, shawl, open clothes, men's clothes, Hu Fu and the so-called "contemporary clothes". There are even long skirts with upper body and chest, which are almost similar to modern "Strapless". Wear a transparent large sleeved leno shirt outside. His arms are exposed, and his skin is faintly visible, which makes people think of Pianpian

however, the author believes that although in the Wei and Jin Dynasties there appeared "undressing when the wind, bare chest and feet"; In the Tang Dynasty, ladies were even more "pink breasts half covered with suspicion and dark snow" and "breasts like snow and faces like flowers" with bare chests, high waists and crisp breasts half covered. After all, after the Song Dynasty, first of all, under the shackles of Cheng Zhu's Neo Confucianism of "keeping the reason of heaven and eliminating desire", especially: women were driven into purdah. Suffer from "only things and laws are pure, not called different people". The so-called feudal ethics of "three cardinal principles and five constant principles" and "three obediences and four virtues" have imprisoned women's hands and feet and shackled women's body and mind. In Chinese clothing, men never leave their big gowns, boots and hats, and women never leave their skirts and hairpins

however, the long river of history has flowed into the recent century. Due to the invasion of western culture, especially after the 1930s and 1940s, the infiltration of Western living habits has changed the social atmosphere. Women's fitting clothes are the most prominent. In addition, dresses are also more common. Tracing its origin, the traditional clothing style in ancient China is "the form of clothes under clothes", which is just handed down by Westerners again, which is more simplified and convenient

especially in recent years, a moment of history has brought a great situation of China's reform and opening up. Recently, the advocacy of the development concept of benefit and learning and the promotion of the concept of people-oriented return history to its true colors. As a corner of the history of human civilization, the display of clothing history has turned a new page again. With the liberation of human nature and the diversified embodiment of aesthetic ideas, the "covering and revealing" of clothing, the development history of clothing civilization, can be smoothly publicized

source: Art daily

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